8 June 2010

Slow progress

I have been pretty busy recently, but I managed to fit the headset and forks this afternoon as I was off ill. Yes I should have been in bed, I know, but prefered to sweat it out in the garage. I had not fitted a threaded fork in a long time I realised. Still have the special spanner though.

For some reason I thought I had the right quill stem. Here is proof that a 1 inch one will not fit the Yuba Mundo' headset, which is a 1 1/8th inch threaded one if I remember correctly. Also I had the wrong seat clamp, I think it needs to be the bigger 34.9mm one. I say "I think" because I can't see the info anywhere on the web. I had the 31.8mm version, which is also the seat post dia but not much help otherwise. A quick internet trawl sorted that problem with some secondhand items for not alot...

V2 (Green) and V3 (Orange) seat tube external diameter. Thicker paint on the V2 ? Or rather perhaps I need to get a new vernier calliper...

Found a nice new SRAM 9 speed gear shifter to go on the handlebars, some grips. A new SLX rear mech and two SRAM chains in my parts bin. ( A sports shop went bust last year here and I picked up some bargains).
We were planning to go for a ride tomorrow but every one says storms are on their way, so maby not...


  1. When I first got my V2 I was quite hostile to the threaded headset, but now I use one on my everyday bike and I now quite like the advantages they offer. Had to rebuild a threaded headset on an old Raleigh this weekend, although I had the funky wrench the nut was some weird Raleigh only size and it barely worked.

    I think your vernier calliper is fine, I think 0.37 mm is way within tolerance for Yuba, these bikes are not really about precision

  2. I remember Sheldon brown always wrote that he thought quill stems are a better design. I agree. You can increase stem height easier for example. I think the aheadset stem system is probably cheaper to manufacture (read more profitable) and looks cooler, which probably explains it's success...
    I was a bit fuzzy headed with a cold when using the vernier calliper. I will make some other measurements next time, but I suspect that the V2 had thicker tubewalls and paint.That is why the V3 is lighter ! Strange to see readings like that, I am used to very tight tolerances so it was quite a surprise.

  3. I'm keen to see how you get on with disc brakes and the stock forks as I'm still getting shudder in mine. I fitted identical brakes to my other bike with no such problems so I'm starting to suspect the Yuba forks. I've not seen anyone else with discs on the stock yuba fork.

  4. I am a big fan of BB7 brakes. I can't get my head round hydraulics on a push bike...

    The only case of shudder I have had with BB7s was on a MTB where the front wheel was dished too far to the left and caused all sorts of exciting shuddering when I braked. I rebuilt the wheel properly and hey presto no more shuddering.

    Swop out the wheel to see if that is the problem ? I think also that rigid forks do act differently, and spring is part of the way they work. I was riding my old 1988 Trek hack the other day and the old canti brakes really made the forks shudder visibly. Modern bikes are so smooth now I think we may forget how unrefined some things used to be...

    I will blog on the front brake performance anyway.